Wild East Time Travel
Wild East Time Travel
Red Stars
Thunder reverberates. Winds gust. Ahead lies a stone shelter built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s. To your right, century-old tree roots tangle among rock walls of a long-forgotten farm. Underfoot, the soils may hide an arrowhead chiseled by a hunter 9,000 years ago, or a stray bullet from the Civil War. The boulder you touch to steady yourself could well be a billion years old. You quicken your step with the urgency of all who have come before you to find refuge in a storm.

Every footfall on the Appalachian National Scenic Trail connects to the flow of human history that is anchored in geology and influenced by the north-south mountains and gaps. It is here in the Wild East when outdoors, and within the largest natural corridor east of the Mississippi River, that time travel feels possible.

As I prepare for a backpack trek across several magnificent balds this summer, I’m studying up on more than the thrushes, warblers, and vireos I hope to hear and see. I’m willing to add the extra weight of relevant history pages from the A.T. Guide to Tennessee-North Carolina, along with the A.T. Thru-Hikers’ Companion. The trick is to grasp the big picture beforehand and then study the clues and stories for each day. At the Clyde Smith Shelter, I’ll look for two rows of maple trees that signal an old driveway to a vanished homestead. Near the junction with Highway 19E, I’ll scan for black magnetic iron, leftovers from the long-closed Wilder Mine, where ten railroad cars hauled the last ore away in 1918.

Wild East Time Travel
Wild East Time Travel
by Marina Richie Illustration Tim Bower
Red Stars
Thunder reverberates. Winds gust. Ahead lies a stone shelter built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s. To your right, century-old tree roots tangle among rock walls of a long-forgotten farm. Underfoot, the soils may hide an arrowhead chiseled by a hunter 9,000 years ago, or a stray bullet from the Civil War. The boulder you touch to steady yourself could well be a billion years old. You quicken your step with the urgency of all who have come before you to find refuge in a storm.

Every footfall on the Appalachian National Scenic Trail connects to the flow of human history that is anchored in geology and influenced by the north-south mountains and gaps. It is here in the Wild East when outdoors, and within the largest natural corridor east of the Mississippi River, that time travel feels possible.

As I prepare for a backpack trek across several magnificent balds this summer, I’m studying up on more than the thrushes, warblers, and vireos I hope to hear and see. I’m willing to add the extra weight of relevant history pages from the A.T. Guide to Tennessee-North Carolina, along with the A.T. Thru-Hikers’ Companion. The trick is to grasp the big picture beforehand and then study the clues and stories for each day. At the Clyde Smith Shelter, I’ll look for two rows of maple trees that signal an old driveway to a vanished homestead. Near the junction with Highway 19E, I’ll scan for black magnetic iron, leftovers from the long-closed Wilder Mine, where ten railroad cars hauled the last ore away in 1918.

When I hike over Jane Bald Summit, I’ll think of the two North Carolina sisters, Jane and Harriet Cook, and their ill-fated 1870 trek home from visiting relatives in Tennessee. Harriet fell ill with milk sickness (from cows eating a kind of snakeroot and poisoning the milk) and was too weak to walk. They spent a freezing November night on this ridge. Jane hurried for help in the morning. Rescuers brought Harriet out by wagon, but she died the next day. She was 24. Stories are sprinkled throughout the Trail. They link hikers to poignant dramas and significant historical events.

When I hike over Jane Bald Summit, I’ll think of the two North Carolina sisters, Jane and Harriet Cook, and their ill-fated 1870 trek home from visiting relatives in Tennessee. Harriet fell ill with milk sickness (from cows eating a kind of snakeroot and poisoning the milk) and was too weak to walk. They spent a freezing November night on this ridge. Jane hurried for help in the morning. Rescuers brought Harriet out by wagon, but she died the next day. She was 24. Stories are sprinkled throughout the Trail. They link hikers to poignant dramas and significant historical events.
The Big Picture
Without the Appalachian Mountains, the history and culture of North America would be far different. The definitive ranges have long served as barrier, passage, and life source. Headwaters of rivers spring from cracks. Ancient rocks expose iron, coal, and quartzite. Every change in elevation hosts plant and animal life intimately tied to the mountains and in turn to the livelihoods of people. The rigor of mountain life fostered music in Appalachia, inspired poetry, myth, and fueled the indomitable human spirit seeking the solace of, and the sacred in, high places.

Some 480 million years ago, the buckling, folding, and faulting of colliding continental plates defined violent beginnings, perhaps a prelude to what would come much later in human conflicts. Once, the Appalachians jutted skyward as high as the Himalayas. Over the millennia, a series of mountain building events shaped the ranges of today. Erosion gentled and lowered the summits, yet there are no shortage of steep ascents, rocks, and roots interspersed with the bliss of ice-cold springs, waterfalls, sheltering forests, wildflower meadows, and the gaps between high points that played a vital role in human history.

White Stars
From Georgia to Maine, the A.T. traverses history — not in straight lines, but more like skipping stones.
White Stars
Annual Antietam National Battlefield Memorial Illumination
Red Stars
From Georgia to Maine, the A.T. traverses history — not in straight lines, but more like skipping stones.
Red Stars
Each December, the Annual Antietam National Battlefield Memorial Illumination in Maryland takes place to honor those soldiers who fell during the Battle of Antietam with 23,000 candles — one for each soldier killed, wounded, or missing at the Battle of Antietam – Photo courtesy the National Park Service
From Georgia to Maine, the A.T. traverses history — not in straight lines, but more like skipping stones. In New York, cross the Bear Mountain Bridge on the Hudson River and feel the icy retreat of glaciers that carved the valley. Listen for the ghostly echoes of gunshots fired by Revolutionary soldiers from hillsides, the splash of oars a century earlier when Dutch settlers headed to the interior to farm the highlands, and the almost silent paddles of Native Americans slipping up and down the river as they had for thousands of years before European arrival.
Barrier
For the tribes that flourished before European arrival, the Appalachians were not a barrier, but part of the seasonal round that offered good hunting and gathering. However, they concentrated their villages and agriculture in the fertile valleys and at the confluences of rivers. Hikers on the A.T. can cross homelands of first nations that include the Micmac, Passamaquoddy, and Abenaki of New England. The Seneca, Cayuga, Oneida, Onondaga, Mohawk and Tuscarora all united as the Iroquois confederacy in New York. Pennsylvania is home to the Lenape and Susquehannock, and to the south, the Cherokee formed the largest of the Appalachian tribes.

For white settlers from the sixteenth to seventeenth centuries, the daunting march of Appalachian Mountains formed a physical obstacle, and then a mystical frontier between the Atlantic and the wonders of the West. The arrival of some 200,000 Scotch-Irish from 1710 to 1775 marked a push into the spine of the Appalachians. Initially, they sought cheap land and a new life in New Hampshire and Maine. Many moved on to Pennsylvania and others to the southern mountains, giving rise to the music and culture of Appalachia. Another barrier appeared in the clash of cultures as the Scotch-Irish intruded upon the tribal homelands, contributing to tragic episodes in mountain history. None are more infamous than the Cherokee Trail of Tears that followed the 1830s Indian Removal Act.

Outdoor Afro A.T. Trip retraces the Underground Railroad
In 2016, seven African Americans re-traced the historical route of the Underground Railroad along a 40-mile stretch of the A.T., from the Mason-Dixon line south to Harpers Ferry. Equipped with high-tech backpack gear, the hikers still shivered in torrential downpours as they envisioned the hardships and life-threatening dangers of fugitives from slavery. Outdoor Afro, the oldest black-led conservation group, organized the trip. Find out more at: outdoorafro.com
Members of Outdoor Afro on the A.T. during their 40-mile Underground Railroad hike – Photo courtesy Outdoor Afro
By the twentieth century, the high peaks and ridges would pose a literal barrier for pilots in bad weather. German balloonists crashed in high winds on Thunder Hill on Virginia’s Blue Ridge during a 1928 race, and survived. In New Hampshire, a Northeast Airlines plane struck a ridge below Moose Mountain, killing 32 of 40 on board. Audie Murphy, World War II hero and actor, died when the small plane smashed into Brush Mountain near New Castle, Virginia in 1971, marked by a trailside monument. Since 1920, more than 55 planes have crashed in what is now the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, including an Air Force Phantom jet that slammed into Inadu Knob in 1984. Fragments are still visible from the Trail.
Passage
Every gap, notch, or valley between mountain ranges signals a passage for animals and people alike. Once plentiful until the mid-1700s era of plunder, eastern buffalo funneled through the Blue Ridge’s Bearwallow Gap, also an ancient Native American route. Can you hear their ghostly snorts and pawing hooves in the winds? The major gaps funneled transportation routes, from trails to railroads to highways.

In times of war, the gaps proved strategic places to defend. During the Civil War, Confederates and Union forces sought to control access to the Shenandoah Valley — both for its resources and as a thoroughfare for supplies and regiments. Three gaps on the A.T. in the Shenandoah National Park section proved pivotal for the Confederates in 1862 — Browns, Rockfish, and Swift Run Gaps.

In that same era, beginning in 1851, slaves seeking freedom navigated a mountainous route near or on today’s A.T. to cross the Mason-Dixon line into Pennsylvania. Most of the Underground Railroad routes likely followed the more forgiving mountain flanks.

Life Source
The Appalachians have long sustained life, from rivers and forests to wildlife, plants, soils, and arguably the human soul as well. The thirst-quenching springs are natural places for camps dating back thousands of years. A flat spot nearby to sleep, shelter from wind, and southern exposure would add even more attractive qualities. Later, moonshiners would build whiskey stills by certain springs, especially if not far from corn, rye, and wheat ingredients.
14 State History Tour
14 State History Tour
To whet your history and culture appetite, here’s a sampling from the Trail — one for each of the 14 states.
Georgia
White Oak Stamp Mountain Culture
Until the early 20th Century, mountain families lived an off-the-grid lifestyle in nearby hollows. The word “stamp” refers to a place to keep livestock. Flat areas like this were hard to find. The families burned the understory on ridges to clear the way for cattle, hogs, and sheep to munch on new green growth and acorns beneath sheltering oak, birch, buckeye, chestnut, and beech. White Oak Stamp, along with Buck Creek and Chunky Gal Mountain, harbors fine stands of old-growth, high altitude forests.
North Carolina
Wayah Bald
Observation Tower
The three-story-high stone tower was built by the CCC in 1937. Visitors can gaze across ridge upon ridge of the Smoky Mountains — a view shared by a crew lifting heavy rocks 72 years ago. Wayah comes from the Cherokee word for wolf. Almost wiped out by predator control efforts of the early 1900s, a reintroduced population of the highly endangered red wolves face a tenuous future to the east in the Albemarle Peninsula.
Tennessee/North Carolina Border
Yellow Mountain Gap & the Revolutionary War
A band of Tennessee patriots headed east to fight the Tories in the 1780 Battle of Kings Mountain in South Carolina. When drifting off to sleep at the Overmountain Shelter, imagine those men also seeking a camp for the night and their fears of what lay ahead. They’d drawn arms to fight back after British Major Patrick Ferguson threatened the “overmountain settlers” with hanging for taking the side of rebellion. The Overmountain Victory National Historic Trail intersects here on the A.T.
Virginia
James River — Longest Foot Bridge on the A.T.
Spanning 625 feet over the James River, the bridge is aptly dedicated to 1987 thru-hiker Bill Foot, whose efforts resulted in this unique footbridge. Looking down at the currents, drift back in time 15,000 years when nomadic peoples followed spawning runs of fish, then 3,000 years to an era of farming, villages and pottery making, 500 years to Spanish explorations, and 150-plus years to the Civil War. Confederates relied on the river for transport, and later as defensive barrier against Union forces that in turn would benefit from the river for attack.
West Virginia
Harpers Ferry
John Brown’s Raiders
Abolitionist John Brown chose Harpers Ferry in 1859 in part because of the mountainous corridor to freedom, and the rough terrain for guerilla warfare. The aborted attack on the federal arsenal in Harpers Ferry — on a site first championed by President George Washington in his second term — set the stage for the Civil War. Home to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy headquarters, Harpers Ferry lies at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers. History is as thick as a humid summer’s day here. Forests blanket the once cleared hills where cannons fired. Harpers Ferry changed hands eight times between 1861 and 1865.
Maryland
Battle of South Mountain
Union and Confederate soldiers battled for the future of Maryland on September 14, 1862 on this ridge between the Potomac and the Pennsylvania border. Confederate General Robert E. Lee arrived first to defend the gaps. The Union’s General George B. McClellan charged with 28,000 men to attack Fox and Turner’s gaps, and later that day sent 9,000 men to Crampton Gap. The outnumbered 12,000 Confederates withdrew by nightfall. The Confederates lost 2,685 men to the Union’s 2,345 casualties. Three days later at Antietam, 23,000 men would be killed or wounded in one day.
Pennsylvania
Caledonia Iron Works
Underground Railroad
Abolitionist Thaddeus Stevens employed freed or fugitive slaves at his Iron Works, constructed with a partner in 1837, and destined also to be a stop on the Underground Railroad. Freedom seekers heading north from Caledonia likely traced the A.T.’s route through Michaux State Forest to Pine Grove Furnace. In June of 1863, Confederate General Jubal A. Early ordered his men to burn the Iron works. Stevens rebuilt in 1865, and advocated for racial equality in Congress until his death in 1868.
New Jersey
Wawayanda Mountain
— Forging Iron from an Ancient Mountain
Along this ridge, the Appalachians expose some of their oldest rocks — billion-year-old slabs of gneiss and crystalline, when early life bloomed in the form of algae. In the 18th and 19th Century, miners sought iron ore for forges in nearby Vernon Valley. The origin of the word Wawayanda comes from the Lenape people, translated as “winding water” or “water on the mountain.”
New York
Dover Oak —
Largest Oak on the A.T.
The 21-foot-circumference and 114-foot-tall giant witnessed a parade of history for the past 150 to 300 years (its exact age unknown). Perhaps passenger pigeons once perched in the branches — birds that shook the air with millions of wings, and in 1914 blinked out forever after being hunted into extinction.
Connecticut
Housatonic River — Beyond the Mountain Place
Housatonic comes from the Mohican “usi-a-di-en-uk” that translates “beyond the mountain place.” Strolling the A.T. along the river, reflect on the significance of the A.T. as protector of headwaters and watersheds. The Housatonic River flows 149 miles from the Berkshires, nurtures a watershed the size of Delaware, and enters the Long Island Sound.
Massachusetts
Shays’ Rebellion of 1787
The A.T. skirts a weathered rock monument to Daniel Shays, a farmer upset by high state taxes and lack of compensation for serving in the Revolutionary War. In 1787, Shays and other leaders (including Luke Day who’d ridden with Benedict Arnold to Quebec in 1775) raided the federal arsenal in Springfield for weapons. The attack failed. The men scattered, and most were pardoned. The remaining rebels (but not Shays) were arrested in this field. The rebellion would inform the debate over state versus federal powers by the framers of the U.S. Constitution.
Vermont
Little Rock Pond
9,000-Year-Old Quarry
Ten thousand years ago, an avalanche of quartzite boulders tumbled down White Rocks Cliffs, close by Little Rock Pond in southern Vermont. Ancestors of the Abenaki and Mohican peoples once quarried the quartzite to shape arrowheads and tools. Archeologists unearthed a 9,000-year-old projectile point in 2010. During the Ice Age, glacier scouring exposed the metamorphic Cheshire quartzite, formerly sandstone before heated and compressed. The A.T. traverses a 30-mile stretch of the Robert T. Stafford White Rocks National Recreation Area.
New Hampshire
Crawford Notch
1826 Landslide
Thomas Moran captured the frailty of humans within Crawford Notch’s grandeur in his 1839 painting depicting the aftermath of the first landslide of June, 1826, that rumbled down the White Mountain slopes after heavy rains. Innkeeper Samuel Willey, along with his wife and five children moved to safer ground, only to be struck two months later by a second mudslide that killed them all. There is now a Wiley House with exhibits and surrounding hiking trails in Crawford Notch State Park.
Maine
Benedict Arnold’s
Heavy Portage of 1775
Benedict Arnold led 1,150 Revolutionaries on a failed attack on the British in Quebec in 1775. The route coincides with the A.T. between Middle and West Carry Ponds. Arnold chose the Abenaki portage and paddle trail known as the 13 Mile Great Carrying Trail, the safest and shortest way to link the Kennebec and Dead Rivers. In contrast to the Abenaki people portaging birchbark canoes, the exhausted army men hefted 220 wooden boats (bateaux), each weighing 400 pounds. The Maine A.T. Club erected an interpretive sign by Arnold Point, where the army camped.
Trickling springs converge into streams and then mighty rivers. The New River, coursing 320 miles from the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina is one of the world’s oldest. About 300 to 270 million years ago, continental collisions formed the supercontinent Pangea and, as they shoved masses of rock into mountains, the river system lifted with them.

The high elevations in turn offered a corridor for northern forests to expand far southward, and for the great migrations of birds catching updrafts and finding shelter. Those natural qualities persist in the Wild East, along with the relics of logging, clearing the woods for farms, fuel, and war. Awe-inspiring primeval forests remain in pockets and within the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, saved from the saw by the rugged terrain and the foresight of early conservationists. There’s a renewal story, too, in the returning forests and in our evolving relationship with trees, valuing them for storing carbon, anchoring watersheds, hosting wildlife, and nurturing the human spirit.

National Historic Treasure
Step back and consider the sheer quantity of history and culture resonating along the 2,191 miles of Appalachian Trail. The National Park Service-led surveys in 2002 and 2009 listed shelters, Civilian Conservation Corp camps, viewpoints, roads, bridges, buildings, monuments, fire towers, railroad grades, and moonshine stills to tally more than 1,200 features. The list goes on from prehistoric sites to quarries, kilns, and mines of early industry that gave way to richer prospects west.
White Stars
Without the Appalachian Mountains, the history and culture of North America would be far different.
White Stars
marble slab monument
Red Stars
Without the Appalachian Mountains, the history and culture of North America would be far different.
Red Stars
A marble slab monument on the A.T. in Massachusetts marks the last battle of Shay’s Rebellion – By Raymond Salani III
Why does the A.T. harbor so many clues to our past, and so many opportunities for time travel? Volunteer Trail clubs deserve immense credit for maintaining Civilian Conservation Corps-era rock walls, steps, cabins, shelters, and fire towers. Hikers contribute by practicing Leave No Trace ethics to prevent vandalism, litter, and removal of historic artifacts. The more than 40 recognized Appalachian Trail Communities are leaders in geotourism that sustains our natural and cultural heritage. They support museums, exhibits, and culture that in turn enrich the hiking experience.
Where the Cherokee Trail of Tears Intersects the A.T.
Where A.T. hikers and paddlers converge at the Nantahala Outdoor Center, only 181 years ago Cherokee families hid in laurel thickets to evade captors. The U.S. military forced most of the 17,000 Cherokees and four other tribes to march to Oklahoma reservations in 1838-39. At least 4,000 died of hunger, cold, and disease. Today, the Trail of Tears is a national historic trail covering 5,000 miles of routes west.

In October of 2018, members of the Eastern Band of Cherokees gathered with partners from the Trail of Tears Association, and NPS staff from that national historic trail, and the ATC to dedicate North Carolina’s first Trail of Tears historic marker at the Nantahala Outdoor Center’s junction with the A.T. One arrow points five miles to Fort Lindsay, where soldiers rounded up the mountain Cherokees, and the other arrow points 895 miles to Woodhole’s Depot in Oklahoma. The Museum of the Cherokee Indian, in nearby Cherokee, North Carolina, is dedicated to “preserve and perpetuate the history, culture, and stories of the Cherokee people.”

intersection of the Trail of Tears historic route
A new sign marks the intersection of the Trail of Tears historic route with the A.T. at the Nantahala Outdoor Center – Photo by Kristina Moe
Ultimately, we owe the plethora of historical treasures to Benton MacKaye and his 1921 vision for the creation of a footpath along the eastern U.S. We also owe those gifts to Arthur Perkins and Myron Avery whose early efforts led to the completion of a marked A.T. in the 1930s. Skip ahead to the National Trails System Act of 1968 that designated the Appalachian National Scenic Trail, creating a holistic park and jump-starting an ambitious project to acquire and preserve the Trail within a publicly-owned corridor. That effort is 99 percent complete. This is the “People’s Trail,” where volunteers make the difference, everyone shares credit, and the Appalachian Trail Conservancy leads with the National Park Service as partner, along with other agencies like the U.S. Forest Service and local community members in the 14 states. The journey of protection is far from over, as new threats emerge along with a recognition of the need to expand conservation efforts for a wider and more buffered Wild East.
Red Stars
The rigor of mountain life fostered music in Appalachia, inspired poetry, myth, and fueled the indomitable human spirit.
Red Stars
The next step? Historians hope to see the entire A.T. added to the National Register of Historic Places, offering more protection from development, funding for restoration, and greater public appreciation.

For my own small journey on the A.T. this summer, I’m feeling inspired to hike with greater attentiveness to layers of history and the stories floating on the breeze, conveyed in the bird songs, shining down from brilliant stars, and stirring among untended apple orchards merging with wild forests. I believe if you want to time travel, you need to remove yourself from the hustle, noise, and technology of our modern society. There’s no better place than within the Wild East and the lifeline of the Appalachian Trail.

Volunteer history of the a.t. / By Leanna Joyner
THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL WAS AN IDEA conceived in 1921 and was designed and built by ordinary citizens over the decades. Spurred by early champions and the essential route-finding led by others, at the center of the effort was a shared vision for a place that offered reprieve from our rapidly industrializing nation and purpose in applying one’s skills toward a greater cause. Their efforts captured the “lure of discovery,” as A.T. founder Benton MacKaye described it, mobilized through the hiking groups founded in New England, through the Mid-Atlantic and into the South. The most unique facet of the Trail, alongside scenic beauty, is the roughly 6,000 volunteers organized through 31 A.T. partner clubs that keep the Trail alive over its 2,191 miles from Maine to Georgia. The 1968 designation of the Trail as the Appalachian National Scenic Trail acknowledged the importance of public investment to the long-term management of the A.T. We call this public investment the Cooperative Management System. It respects volunteers as co-managers of this public resource that they helped design and build. It’s an important legacy for all of us who love the Trail, and a model nationwide for reinvesting citizens in their public lands as stewards and protectors. Through the Cooperative Management System, the Appalachian Trail Conservancy serves as the convener and helps lead the management of the A.T. in 14 states, through eight National Forests, six National Park Service units, two National Wildlife Refuges, and 74 other state parks/forests and other lands.

Myron Avery with measuring wheel on the Knife Edge in 1933 — on his way to set his first summit sign – Courtesy Maine State Library

The most unique facet of the Trail, alongside scenic beauty, is the roughly 6,000 volunteers organized through 31 A.T. partner clubs that keep the Trail alive, over its 2,191 miles from Maine to Georgia.

Volunteer history of the a.t. / By Leanna Joyner
THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL WAS AN IDEA conceived in 1921 and was designed and built by ordinary citizens over the decades. Spurred by early champions and the essential route-finding led by others, at the center of the effort was a shared vision for a place that offered reprieve from our rapidly industrializing nation and purpose in applying one’s skills toward a greater cause. Their efforts captured the “lure of discovery,” as A.T. founder Benton MacKaye described it, mobilized through the hiking groups founded in New England, through the Mid-Atlantic and into the South. The most unique facet of the Trail, alongside scenic beauty, is the roughly 6,000 volunteers organized through 31 A.T. partner clubs that keep the Trail alive over its 2,191 miles from Maine to Georgia. The 1968 designation of the Trail as the Appalachian National Scenic Trail acknowledged the importance of public investment to the long-term management of the A.T. We call this public investment the Cooperative Management System. It respects volunteers as co-managers of this public resource that they helped design and build. It’s an important legacy for all of us who love the Trail, and a model nationwide for reinvesting citizens in their public lands as stewards and protectors. Through the Cooperative Management System, the Appalachian Trail Conservancy serves as the convener and helps lead the management of the A.T. in 14 states, through eight National Forests, six National Park Service units, two National Wildlife Refuges, and 74 other state parks/forests and other lands.

Myron Avery with measuring wheel on the Knife Edge in 1933 — on his way to set his first summit sign – Courtesy Maine State Library

The most unique facet of the Trail, alongside scenic beauty, is the roughly 6,000 volunteers organized through 31 A.T. partner clubs that keep the Trail alive, over its 2,191 miles from Maine to Georgia.

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