TRAVEL
The Wild East Historical
and Cultural Experience
Significance of Scenic Views
Hot Springs, North Carolina
TRAVEL
The Wild East Historical
and Cultural Experience
Significance of Scenic Views
Hot Springs, North Carolina
TRAVEL
The Wild East Historical
and Cultural Experience
Significance of Scenic Views
Hot Springs, North Carolina
ON THE COVER
Sunrise at Blackrock Summit — just steps from the Trail in Shenandoah
National Park – Photo by Lori Mier
ON THE COVER
Sunrise at Blackrock Summit — just steps from the Trail in Shenandoah
National Park – Photo by Lori Mier
Sandra Marra / President & CEO
Stacey J. Marshall / Vice President of Finance & Administration
Elizabeth Borg / Vice President of Membership and Development
Laura Belleville / Vice President of Conservation & Trail Programs
Cherie A. Nikosey / Chief of Staff
Brian B. King / Publisher
Wendy K. Probst / Editor in Chief
Traci Anfuso-Young / Art Director / Designer
Jordan Bowman / Communications Manager
Laurie Potteiger / Information Services Manager
Brittany Jennings / Proofreader
The Appalachian Trail Conservancy’s mission is to preserve and manage the Appalachian Trail — ensuring that its vast natural beauty and priceless cultural heritage can be shared and enjoyed today, tomorrow, and for centuries to come.
Colin Beasley / Chair
Greg Winchester / Vice Chair
Edward R. Guyot / Secretary
Mary Higley / Treasurer
Beth Critton
Grant Davies
Shalin Desai
Norman P. Findley
Thomas L. Gregg
Daniel A. Howe
Robert Hutchinson
James LaTorre
Colleen Peterson
Rubén Rosales
Hon. C. Stewart Verdery, Jr. / Co-Chair
Hon. Stephanie Martz / Co-Chair
Diana Christopulos
Constance I. DuHamel
Lisa Koteen Gerchick
Jessica Herrera-Flanigan
R. Michael Leonard
Robert Rich
Thomas Torrisi
Sara Hazelwood Yanes
For membership questions or to become a member, call: (304) 885-0460
[email protected]
A.T. Journeys is published four times per year. Advertising revenues directly support the publication and production of the magazine, and help meet Appalachian Trail Conservancy objectives. For more information and advertising rates, visit: appalachiantrail.org/atjadvertising
The Appalachian Trail Conservancy’s mission is to preserve and manage the Appalachian Trail — ensuring that its vast natural beauty and priceless cultural heritage can be shared and enjoyed today, tomorrow, and for centuries to come.
Colin Beasley / Chair
Greg Winchester / Vice Chair
Edward R. Guyot / Secretary
Mary Higley / Treasurer
Beth Critton
Grant Davies
Shalin Desai
Norman P. Findley
Thomas L. Gregg
Daniel A. Howe
Robert Hutchinson
James LaTorre
Colleen Peterson
Rubén Rosales
Hon. C. Stewart Verdery, Jr. / Co-Chair
Hon. Stephanie Martz / Co-Chair
Diana Christopulos
Constance I. DuHamel
Lisa Koteen Gerchick
Jessica Herrera-Flanigan
R. Michael Leonard
Robert Rich
Thomas Torrisi
Sara Hazelwood Yanes
A.T. Journeys is published on Somerset matte paper manufactured by Sappi North America mills and distributors that follow responsible forestry practices. It is printed with Soy Seal certified ink in the U.S.A. by Sheridan NH in Hanover, New Hampshire.
A.T. Journeys ( ISSN 1556-2751) is published quarterly for $15 a year by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, 799 Washington Street, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425, (304) 535-6331. Bulk-rate postage paid at Harpers Ferry, West Virginia, and other offices. Postmaster: Send change-of-address Form 3575 to A.T. Journeys, P.O. Box 807, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425.
The sheer magnitude of historical events converging with the A.T. challenged me to find the common thread of the mountains and gaps as barrier, passage, and life source
THE DRIVE FROM MARYLAND INTO WEST VIRGINIA — OVER THE Potomac and then Shenandoah rivers — is my singular favorite stretch of road. Not just because it is where I used to play, float lazily on innertubes, and attempt to kayak when the rapids were low in the summers of my college years, but for the sheer magnificence of the views and the deep reverence I feel for the history surrounding the area. History flows like a river along the length of the A.T. In some areas, like the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac in Harpers Ferry, it flows quite literally. U.S. history and culture are intertwined inextricably in so many places along the Trail that it is easy to liken the footpath to a portal for time travel. In this ancient but somehow ageless Appalachian mountain range, time loops from past to future and back again revealing old and new messages — of the significance of dazzling scenic views, the stories behind some of the oldest historical places in the U.S., and the importance of cultural diversity in the outdoor-loving recreational community.
Jennifer Pharr Davis
Jennifer Pharr Davis is a hiker, author, and speaker who has hiked more than 14,000 miles and traversed the Appalachian Trail three times. In 2011, she set the overall unofficial speed record on the A.T. (averaging 47 miles per day for 46 days). She has also logged over 600 miles pregnant and over 1,000 miles while nursing. She founded the Blue Ridge Hiking Company — a premier guiding service in the southeastern U.S., which recently launched a lightweight hiking and backpacking boutique in Asheville and a bunkhouse on the A.T. in Hot Springs, North Carolina. “It was a joy to write this piece because the scenic views along the Appalachian Trail are the first place where I felt fully beautiful, self-assured, and a part of the natural environment,” she says. Jennifer is also the author several critically acclaimed books, including Becoming Odyssa and The Pursuit of Endurance.
Audrey Peterman
Audrey Peterman grew up in the proverbial “village” that it takes to raise a child. Free to roam the lush Jamaican countryside with a host of village children, she feasted on mangoes, guavas, and limitless fruits and sat on the riverbanks observing life in the water while doing her homework.
"When I migrated to the United States and discovered the National Park System, I was shocked to find the disparity in visitorship and employment along racial lines,” she says. She and her husband Frank have been striving to remedy this situation through consulting, writing, speaking, and physically introducing people to the parks. She served five three-year terms on the Board of Trustees for the National Parks Conservation Association and is co-founder of the Diverse Environmental Leaders Speakers Bureau.
Tim Bower is an illustrator living and working in eastern Pennsylvania. Over the last three decades, his editorial work has been commissioned by major U.S. newspapers, magazines, and book publishers, and has been recognized by the illustration/design industry. He has also produced artwork for advertising campaigns, annual reports, and character design for film for clients including: Sony, Nike, Volkswagen, Red Bull, ESPN, Major League Baseball and Blue Sky Studios. Tim has served on the faculty of several college illustration programs, most currently the University of the Arts in Philadelphia. “As an editorial illustrator I’m offered assignments on current events most frequently, so the occasional historical or fictional themes are always welcome and have become preferred,” he says. “This article, with its substantial conceptual heft was a pleasure to dig into, not only for its interesting imagery but for its historical and cultural significance.”
After a deep dive into history, Marina Richie has a piece of advice for fellow hikers: If you want to time travel, pause to touch a boulder and feel the passage of human history grounded in geology and shaped by the north-south mountain range.
Marina often writes about the confluence of nature and culture, and authored the winter 2019 feature, “Wild Skyway.” “Researching this piece offered new and often emotional insights into the Cherokee Trail of Tears, and those who traversed the Underground Railroad, as well as stories from the Revolutionary and Civil wars, and the CCC-era,” she says. “The sheer magnitude of historical events converging with the A.T. challenged me to find the common thread of the mountains and gaps as barrier, passage, and life source."
Resilience, Dedication and Aspiration
AS THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL Conservancy’s (ATC) president/CEO, it has been my privilege to share in the rich A.T. legacy. When I joined in 2017, I was immediately impressed by the passionate dedication to the Trail shared by our members, volunteers, partners, the National Park Service, the U.S. Forest Service, and, of course, the ATC’s board and staff. I’ve had an incredibly fast, exhilarating, and wonderful run, so I’m sure that this being my last column will catch many of you by surprise — more about that below. Initially, I want to address a number of important items:
First, the incredible efforts made by first responders, hikers, and the whole A.T. community to the horrific assault that led to the death of U.S. Army veteran Ronald Sanchez Jr., and which severely wounded another hiker, reminds us all how much we depend on one another. Our hearts go out to the victims and to their families and friends — clearly reflected by the outpouring of love and support that the A.T. hiking and volunteer community has directed their way. Not long after this tragedy, Appalachian Trail lovers from around the world gathered for the 33rd Annual Trail Days in Damascus, Virginia. The yearly festival of celebration, learning, and fellowship was made more profound by our shared shock at this senseless violence.
THE ARTICLES FROM KIM O’Connell and Rebecca Harnish, “Step Out” and “Postcards from Paradise” (Spring 2019) are the reason I will keep my membership and enjoy A.T. Journeys as long as I live. Rebecca’s short article may be why many don’t want to long-distance hike, but to me and the ones who have hiked the Trail, we never want it to end. Her article gave me the sights, sounds, smells, and feelings that only a person that has experienced it can get. Keep these articles coming.
Richard “Truck” Dailey
Orange Park, Florida
WHILE I AM GENERALLY NOT a fan of the thru-hiker articles, I do appreciate the togetherness that comes from publishing the 2,000-Miler list of those who’ve done it ("2,000-Milers," Spring 2019) #jealous. The “Step Out” article about Trail Communities by Kim O’Connell is a keeper for when my life commitments allow me to hike, long weekends at best. Good tips in that article. Also, beautiful post card art by Rebecca Harnish.
FOUR RETURNING DIRECTORS HAVE BEEN NOMINATED for open positions on the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) Board of Directors for the 2019–2022 term.Elections will be conducted electronically prior to the organization’s annual meeting, which is scheduled from 10:30 a.m. to noon EDT on September 7, 2019.
Nominated for three-year terms are: Greg Winchester of Milton, Georgia; Beth Critton of West Hartford, Connecticut; Rubén Rosales of Cambridge, Massachusetts; and Norman Findley of Brookhaven, Georgia.
The annual meeting will be conducted on a virtual basis this year. Further information on the meeting, the elections process, and the nominees can be found at: appalachiantrail.org.
{ By Jennifer Pharr Davis }
{ By Jennifer Pharr Davis }
I HAD BEEN ON THE TRAIL FOR A LITTLE OVER FOUR WEEKS and despite the demanding climb to the summit of Roan Mountain my legs still felt energized. The Trail stretched before me like a moving sidewalk that pulled me forward without effort. It was late April and the breeze brought the stirring scent of spring to the 6,000-foot ridgeline. The eastern horizon was stacked with layers of mountains that turned violet and indigo as the sun grew heavy in the sky. To the west, the deep green of Christmas tree farms and spring flora filling the valley floor. As I ascended Hump Mountain, the sun descended on a distant peak. And, like a lit match to a firework, the sinking orb ignited the sky with rose color hues and golden linings on every cloud.
When I reached the top, I was overtaken with the moment. Without thinking, I shouted, “Praise God,” at the top of my lungs. Suddenly, I felt self-conscious. I looked around again to make sure I was alone. I was… I was by myself, standing on top of a 400-million-year-old mountain, with uninterrupted views in every direction, and the moment was too full to be contained.
Mount Greylock became Massachusetts’ first state reservation in 1898, with the donation of 400 acres of land. Today the reservation includes over 12,500 acres, including an 11.5-mile segment of the Appalachian Trail.
Immerse yourself in the stories surrounding the Wild East — from the importance of forest health to the eastern U.S. to the significance of the A.T. and surrounding corridor as a migratory route and home to myriad species of birds. Explore, watch videos, and learn about the people and places that are part of the larger narrative that encompasses the Wild East.
wildeastappalachiantrail.org
trailheadIn the wake of the widely reported incident on the Appalachian Trail in southwest Virginia in May 2019 that resulted in the death of Ronald Sanchez, Jr. and serious injuries to another hiker, the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) emphasizes the importance of reporting suspicious behavior to law enforcement.
Mr. Sanchez managed to send an SOS from a satellite-based device just before he was killed. The distress calls triggered a major emergency-management response throughout southwest Virginia—from nearby U.S. Forest Service law enforcement, sheriffs’ deputies from Smyth, Wythe, and Bland counties, the state police, and a National Park Service ranger from the Blue Ridge Parkway. Twenty-four miles of the Trail from the edge of Mount Rogers National Recreation Area to Va. 42 were closed for 26 hours while law enforcement and a private rescue group combed the area to ensure other hikers were safe.
The ATC advises hikers to call 911 (or use an emergency distress signal in areas where cell service is not available) in any situation requiring a law enforcement response or medical emergency. A 24-hour National Park Service dispatch number: 1-866-677-6677 can also be called to report incidents along the A.T. The ATC has updated and streamlined its Incident Reporting web page to provide guidance on — and multiple ways to report — an incident or suspicious person, including a mobile-friendly online incident report form at: appalachiantrail.org/incidents
Get Engaged
with A.T. Volunteers
Stewardship Council Selections
Deadline August 15
The Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) is seeking candidates for the 2019-2021 Stewardship Council. This special committee of the ATC Board of Directors oversees policy development and programs related to stewardship of the A.T. and its surrounding lands and resources. The Council takes a lead role in volunteer engagement, outreach and education, and identifying and mitigating threats to the Trail. Members are expected to attend two, two-day meetings each year and participate actively on council committees. Committees typically meet once per month, usually by e-mail or conference call. The deadline for nominations is August 15.
For more information visit:
appalachiantrail.org/council2019
Springer Mountain – Photo by Niki DiGaetano
beverages, and festivities were all part of
the 2019 festival – Photos courtesy REI
FESTIVAL
Learn more at : appalachiantrail.org/flip-flop
Learn more at : appalachiantrail.org/flip-flop
The caucus provides a venue for members and their staff to quickly gain important information regarding Trail events and the ATC’s priorities, encourage rural economic development anchored by outdoor recreation while preserving a “wild” A.T. corridor, and is a convening space for ATC members who are interested/engaged in improving public lands (specifically Trail lands). Is your U.S. Representative a member of the caucus?
appalachiantrail.org/takeaction
trailheadWork completed as part of the 2019 Hardcore week:
87 Rock Steps
3 Rock Waterbars
34 Sq Ft of Rock Crib
578 Sq Ft of Scree to close off braided social trails
10 Stepping Stones
13 Drainage Dips
6 New Blaze Posts
Rehabbed over a third of a mile of a heavily-used section of the A.T.
trailheadThis year, my partner NAB (“Not A Botanist”) and I (“Unicorn”) are flip flop thru-hiking the A.T. and we decided to sprinkle a little Hardcore on the journey to really spice it up after Trail Days,” says Phoebe Anderson. “NAB and I are both avid conservationists, and we wanted to do our part to help maintain this incredible trail. Hardcore was an awesome and humbling way to do so. I now understand the hours of work each set of rock stairs took to install, and the hundreds of thousands of hours that have been put in over the years to make this thing possible.”
Every footfall on the Appalachian National Scenic Trail connects to the flow of human history that is anchored in geology and influenced by the north-south mountains and gaps. It is here in the Wild East when outdoors, and within the largest natural corridor east of the Mississippi River, that time travel feels possible.
Every footfall on the Appalachian National Scenic Trail connects to the flow of human history that is anchored in geology and influenced by the north-south mountains and gaps. It is here in the Wild East when outdoors, and within the largest natural corridor east of the Mississippi River, that time travel feels possible.
Due to the advice I was given, I sent my pole forward 30 miles ahead to Neels Gap. This would give me a chance to decide if the Trail would provide plenty of fishing opportunities to make the extra weight worth it. Within the first 100 steps of the approach trail I realized I made a mistake not having my pole on me. There was a beautiful waterfall (Amicalola Falls) cascading down into a pool of water (Reflection Pond). Although I can’t confirm fishing was allowed at this spot, it gave me the foreshadow I needed.
Declan Fox
~ Declan “Photon” Fox
Be sure to take a few steps (or more) on the legendary Appalachian Trail, which passes directly through the town and draws thousands of adventure seekers from around the world every year.
Shortleaf pine,
Pinus echinata,
is a widely distributed and poorly understood southern yellow pine. Growing in 22 states from southern New York to eastern Texas, it occupies the largest range of any pine in the southeastern United States. Its extensive distribution reflects it adaptability to a great variety of soil, average annual temperatures, total precipitation, and elevations (up to 3,000 feet).
Shortleaf pine is a medium-sized, native, evergreen conifer with relatively short needles and thin, flaky, black bark that becomes reddish brown with age.
Shortleaf pine has medium-thick bark which protects the tree and the dormant buds within the bole and at the base. Pines up to about 30 years of age will sprout from dormant basal buds if the crown is top-killed. It regenerates well after fire since exposed mineral soil and lack of competition facilitate seedling establishment.
Shortleaf pine,
Pinus echinata,
is a widely distributed and poorly understood southern yellow pine. Growing in 22 states from southern New York to eastern Texas, it occupies the largest range of any pine in the southeastern United States. Its extensive distribution reflects it adaptability to a great variety of soil, average annual temperatures, total precipitation, and elevations (up to 3,000 feet).
Shortleaf pine is a medium-sized, native, evergreen conifer with relatively short needles and thin, flaky, black bark that becomes reddish brown with age.
Shortleaf pine has medium-thick bark which protects the tree and the dormant buds within the bole and at the base. Pines up to about 30 years of age will sprout from dormant basal buds if the crown is top-killed. It regenerates well after fire since exposed mineral soil and lack of competition facilitate seedling establishment.
TAKE A DEEPER DIVE IN TO THE nuanced stories of American history along the A.T. this summer. Our picks will send you back in time — and maybe inspire you to plan a future visit to a hallowed place of historical significance in the Wild East.
$100,000 – $499,000
Estate of Laurence Ross
$50,000 – $99,999
Estate of Lois DeConca
Davies Family Foundation
Greg* & Jan Winchester
Sharron Martin by Jennifer Whitford
Richard Mayberry by Susan & Arnie Andresen, Ora & Susan Wells
Robert Mayberry by Karl & Joan Munn
David Misemer by Joseph Misemer
Kimberly Greenwell
John W. Grumm
George Grzyb
Greer Gunby
Edward* & Janelle Guyot
Jim Haggett
Megan ‘Dangerpants’ Parker & John ‘Six’ Sieber by Dawn Havird, Andrea LoPinto, Ashley Newby, Janice & Henry Thomas, Lisa Westray
Dianne Seger by Donna Fielder, Lorri Toomey
David Smith by Art Smith
Kenny Smith by Joan Gigstead
Dave Tarasevich by Shepherds Spring, Inc.
Betsy Thompson by Sarah Best, Jeanne Manto, Eunice Thompson
Edward Uehling by Jeanne Werner
Matthew Whitford by Jennifer Whitford
I fell in love with the Appalachian Trail back in the 90s, when a young woman of Asian descent sent me her story about thru-hiking the Trail for publication in our environmental travel newsletter, Pickup & GO!
My feelings grew deeper when I first set foot on the Trail at its beginning in Georgia near the turn of the century, on a hike with the Atlanta-based “Keeping It Wild” group my husband Frank spearheaded. It was the first time I actually saw a tree fall in the woods, and we heard the crack well before we saw the shudder in the forest where it landed.
A few years later, while preparing to speak at an Appalachian Trail Conservancy event, I learned about Benton MacKaye, and how in the 1920s he envisioned the Trail as a means of helping working class Americans in rapidly urbanizing areas make more efficient use of our spare time, instead of just our working time. What a visionary! I felt closer to the Trail than ever.
