AT Journeys Fall 2023 logo
Transitions Edition
Plants and red leaves with ice on them
Fall 2023
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Contents / Fall 2023
departments
features
Restoring aquatic connectivity in the Maine woods benefits all who live and play in the landscape. / By Jenny O’Connell

A New Jersey estate with ties to the settlement house movement became the birthplace of the A.T. / By Anne Merrill

In this season of gratitude, we are thankful for all who make our work possible!

Highlights from our state-by-state photo contest.

As the nights grow longer, our thoughts turn inward about what we have accomplished thus far this year and about our starry-eyed ambitions for the future. Photo of the night sky in the 100-Mile Wilderness in Maine by Chris Gallaway/Horizonline Pictures
On The Cover

A small stand of beech trees with red leaves coated in rime ice captures the often sudden transition from fall to winter. Photo near the summit of Little Hump Mountain, North Carolina, by Daniel Burleson

night sky in the 100-Mile Wilderness in Maine
As the nights grow longer, our thoughts turn inward about what we have accomplished thus far this year and about our starry-eyed ambitions for the future. Photo of the night sky in the 100-Mile Wilderness in Maine by Chris Gallaway/Horizonline Pictures
On The Cover

A small stand of beech trees with red leaves coated in rime ice captures the often sudden transition from fall to winter. Photo near the summit of Little Hump Mountain, North Carolina, by Daniel Burleson

AT Journeys Fall 2023 logo

ATC Executive Leadership

Sandra Marra / President & CEO
Hawk Metheny / Vice President of Regional and Trail Operations
Marian Orlousky / Acting Vice President of Conservation and Policy

A.T. Journeys

Anne Merrill / Associate Vice President of Advancement
Traci Anfuso-Young / Art Director / Designer

Observations, conclusions, opinions, and product endorsements expressed in A.T. Journeys are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect those of members of the board or staff of the Appalachian Trail Conservancy.

A.T. Journeys is published on matte paper manufactured by Sappi North America mills and distributors that follow responsible forestry practices. It is printed with Soy Seal certified ink in the U.S.A. by Sheridan NH in Hanover, New Hampshire.

A.T. Journeys ( ISSN 1556-2751) is published by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, 799 Washington Street, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425, (304) 535-6331. Bulk-rate postage paid at Harpers Ferry, West Virginia, and other offices. Postmaster: Send change-of-address Form 3575 to A.T. Journeys, P.O. Box 807, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425.

MISSION

The Appalachian Trail Conservancy’s mission is to protect, manage, and advocate for the Appalachian National Scenic Trail.

Board of Directors

Jim LaTorre / Chair
Nathan G. Rogers / Vice Chair
Rajinder Singh / Secretary
Katherine Ross / Treasurer
Daniel A. Howe / Chair, Stewardship Council
Sandra Marra / President & CEO
Renee Alston-Maisonet
Grant L. Davies
Rita Hennessy
Bill Holman
Roger Klein
John W. Knapp, Jr.
Yong Lee
Gregory Merritt
Eboni Preston
Patricia D. Shannon
Jeri Ward
Greg Winchester
Nicole Wooten

© 2023 Appalachian Trail Conservancy. All rights reserved.
Observations, conclusions, opinions, and product endorsements expressed in A.T. Journeys are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect those of members of the board or staff of the Appalachian Trail Conservancy.

A.T. Journeys is published on matte paper manufactured by Sappi North America mills and distributors that follow responsible forestry practices. It is printed with Soy Seal certified ink in the U.S.A. by Sheridan NH in Hanover, New Hampshire.

A.T. Journeys ( ISSN 1556-2751) is published by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, 799 Washington Street, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425, (304) 535-6331. Bulk-rate postage paid at Harpers Ferry, West Virginia, and other offices. Postmaster: Send change-of-address Form 3575 to A.T. Journeys, P.O. Box 807, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425.

President’s Letter
“I look forward every year to the first flash of red sugar maples dotting an otherwise green hillside. Or the first chilly breeze that chases me back inside to grab an extra layer before spending time outside.”
Mists shroud a hilltop in Tennessee. Photo by Cynthia Viola / www.cynthiaviola.com
New Beginnings
Perhaps for some of you, the fall is a season of endings. As the days shorten, the leaves fall, and last months of the year fly by, it’s natural to feel like everything is coming to a close. But for me, the fall has always been a season of beginnings. That may still be a holdover from childhood of the school year starting anew every fall — a rhythm that gets established so early in life that it never seems to lose its grip on us.

Whatever the reason, I look forward every year to the first flash of red sugar maples dotting an otherwise green hillside. Or the first chilly breeze that chases me back inside to grab an extra layer before spending time outside. Or the crunch of leaf litter under my boots as I walk along a familiar stretch of Trail.

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highlights / events

Heading north into Dicks Creek Gap, Georgia
Heading north into Dicks Creek Gap, Georgia. Photo by Katie “Heartbeat” Johnson submitted as part of the ATC’s 2023 state-by-state photo contest. See more photos here.
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Leaders
Welcoming a New Superintendent
Superintendent Ed Clark is the fifth park manager/superintendent of the Trail since Congress designated it the first National Scenic Trail in 1968.

Superintendent Ed Clark is the fifth park manager/superintendent of the Trail since Congress designated it the first National Scenic Trail in 1968. Photo courtesy of National Park Service

The Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) is pleased to welcome Ed Clark as the new superintendent of the Appalachian National Scenic Trail. A veteran of the National Park Service (NPS), Clark has worked at both the park and national level for several decades, building strong public–private partnerships and providing strategic leadership. Clark will be the fifth park manager/superintendent of the Trail since Congress designated it the first National Scenic Trail in 1968.

“I am honored to be selected as the superintendent of the Appalachian National Scenic Trail,” said Clark. “The Appalachian Trail is such a unique and treasured landscape. I am eager to begin collaborating with other federal, state, tribal, and community partners to continue to protect this natural gem. I look forward to meeting the dedicated staff and partners that support the Trail and working to support our shared vision.”

Clark formerly served as the Pacific West Region’s senior project manager supporting complex projects such as Colorado River water issues, Lake Mead water levels, and statewide permitting efforts. From 2014 to 2017, Clark served as the superintendent of Gettysburg National Military Park and Eisenhower National Historic Site, while also serving in key park planning positions.

“As the lead NGO for the management and stewardship of the Appalachian Trail, the ATC is excited to begin working with Ed to implement a collaborative vision for the second century of this beloved trailway,” said Sandra Marra, ATC President and CEO. “More than just a simple footpath, the A.T. and its surrounding landscape promote ecological health and biodiversity, sustainable outdoor recreation economies, and a truly unique recreational experience. Ed brings valuable community engagement experience that will be critical to advancing our collective efforts to protect and maintain this valuable national resource.”

Prior to his post at Gettysburg, Clark served as superintendent of Manassas National Battlefield Park for five years, where he provided service-wide leadership for the Sesquicentennial of the Civil War and the broader Civil War to Civil Rights commemorative efforts. He has also served as the acting associate regional director for operations for the National Capital Region of the National Park Service and the acting national coordinator for National Heritage Areas.

Clark’s other previous assignments include deputy chief ranger at Shenandoah National Park and supervisory park ranger at the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Clark is the successor to Superintendent Wendy Janssen, who retired in December 2022. He began his duties in early October 2023.

New ATC Board Members and Directors
At its annual meeting on August 26, 2023, the ATC welcomed four new officers as well as four members of its Board of Directors. Taking the helm of the board following the tenure of Colin Beasley is Jim LaTorre. He is a long-time member of the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, where he has served as a trail maintainer, campsite maintainer, boundary monitor, certified sawyer, and member of Trail Patrol. The board officers serving alongside LaTorre are Vice Chair Nathan Rogers, Treasurer Katherine Ross, and Secretary Rajinder Singh.

In addition to their passion for the A.T. and for outdoor recreation, the following four new board members bring expertise in conservation, legal affairs, marketing, and youth engagement.

  • Renee Alston-Maisonet works to connect under-represented youth to the outdoors and careers in conservation.
  • Bill Holman is North Carolina State Director of The Conservation Fund, where he is responsible for advocating for conservation priorities in that state.
  • Roger Klein most recently served as Deputy General Counsel for a pioneer of smart technology.
  • Gregory Merritt has held senior marketing positions at clean-energy firms and other companies seeking to drive new business.

Congratulations, welcome, and thanks to all for your leadership!

Jim DeLaTorre accepts his official 2,000 miler certificate from President and CEO Sandra Marra

In addition to becoming chair of the ATC Board of Directors in 2023, Jim LaTorre completed his section hike of the A.T. Here, he accepts his official 2,000 miler certificate from President and CEO Sandra Marra.
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Events
Engaging the Next Generation in Trail Stewardship
A passionate group of young adults came together in early October at the AMC Mohican Outdoor Center to cultivate a shared commitment to making the Appalachian Trail, public lands, and the outdoors a welcoming place for all. At this year’s Emerging Leaders Summit, 27 people aged 18 – 30 spent three days connecting with nature (even in the rain) and one another, meeting environmental leaders, learning trail skills, and gaining a deeper understanding of how to effectively protect, manage, and advocate for the A.T.

“This transformative experience has deepened my commitment to preserving the beauty and heritage of the Appalachian Trail while addressing the need for greater representation and inclusion in the outdoors. I’m excited to join a network of passionate individuals dedicated to protecting this natural treasure and making it more accessible to all,” said Sara Rose Monahan, a 2018 graduate of Villanova University and a participant in the 2023 summit.

Co-sponsored by the ATC, the AMC, and the Wilderness Society, the event had a record number of applicants including a higher number of Black, Indigenous People of Color applicants than previous years. Selected participants received a scholarship covering lodging, meals, and registration costs.

Learn more about the Emerging Leaders Summit at appalachiantrail.org/emerging-leaders.

A record number of applicants sought the opportunity to cultivate leadership and Trail stewardship skills at the 2023 Emerging Leaders Summit

A record number of applicants sought the opportunity to cultivate leadership and Trail stewardship skills at the 2023 Emerging Leaders Summit, held at the AMC Mohican Outdoor Center. Photos by Noel Waldron
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Globetrotting
Trail-Blazing in Brazil and Japan
Trail-Blazing in Brazil and Japan group

The Appalachian Trail is a model for long-distance trails across the country and around the world. Its distinct structures and wayfinding, unique management system, and reliance on volunteer maintenance have inspired and been replicated by long trails across continents.

But the A.T. doesn’t influence other trails all on its own. ATC staff have played and continue to play active roles in sharing what we have learned over the past 98 years about managing and protecting this iconic public resource. This fall, ATC staff participated in international trail conferences in Brazil and Japan to share some of their experience and expertise.

The Second Annual Brazilian Trails Congress, held in September, was a gathering of representatives from 28 regional trails in South America’s largest country. Through lectures, roundtables, exhibits, and — of course — trail walks, participants shared best practices on caring for and maintaining trails.

In November, ATC staff traveled to Japan for a long-trail forum as well as a trail maintenance symposium. The latter was sponsored by the Shine-tsu Trail Club, with which the ATC has signed a Friendship Trails Agreement to foster the continued exchange of ideas and information.

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Googling
Do You Doodle about the A.T.?
Google homepage appalachian trail doodle
Google did! On October 2, 2023 — the 55th anniversary of the National Trails System Act — the search engine giant featured an A.T.-themed animated doodle on its homepage. When you clicked play, a trail journal flipped open, allowing you to leaf through 10 illustrated pages of facts about the Trail, its history, and long-distance hiking traditions.

On page seven, for example, you learned: “The oldest and most important tradition of the Trail is to leave it just as you found it, allowing everyone to enjoy the same natural beauty.”

Doodles have been featured on the Google homepage for more than 20 years, and since then some 5,000 doodles have educated Google users about a variety of topics, including holidays, historic anniversaries, and the lives of famous artists, pioneers, and scientists. This is the first time the Appalachian Trail has been the subject of a doodle. National parks were honored in 2016, on the occasion of the National Park Service’s 100th anniversary.

To create the doodle, artist Nate Swinehart visited several iconic locations along the Trail, including Clingmans Dome in Tennessee, McAfee Knob in Virginia, and the Hunt Trailhead in Maine, among others. Watercolor paintings and pencil sketches from those visits appear in the doodle, along with some of the plant and animal species that call the Trail landscape home.

During the day the doodle appeared on Google’s homepage, visitors to the ATC’s website increased by 320 percent compared to the average daily number of visitors for the previous nine months of the year. Engagement on our social media channels also increased.

If you missed it, you can still see the doodle on Google’s website, at google.com/doodles/celebrating-the-appalachian-trail.
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Appalachian Focus

A HARVEST OF FALL HUES
The transition to autumn occurs at a different pace and time along the entire length of the Appalachian Trail. But everywhere, it provides a new and beautiful filter on a familiar landscape. Here, a patch of goldenrod on Little Hump Mountain, in North Carolina, provides a splash of yellow in a sea of ochre, russet, and garnet-hued grasses and trees. The A.T. winds its way southward towards Yellow Mountain in the distance.

Photo by Daniel Burleson

Daniel Burleson is a photographer based in Spruce Pine, North Carolina. imagecarolina.net
Field of goldenrod on Little Hump Mountain, in North Carolina during sunset
spotlight
Portrait photograph of Ken and Pat LeRoy smiling together as they pose standing next to each other outside near a wooden fence plus a garden area around them; They live in what they consider “a little slice of heaven,” in Bayfield, Colorado.
PROVIDING
FOR FUTURE
GENERATIONS

A retired thru-hiker and his wife support the ATC’s mission with a gift in their will.

Above: Ken and Pat LeRoy live in what they consider “a little slice of heaven,” in Bayfield, Colorado. Left: An acquaintance’s offhand remark about an amazing hiking trip that included Max Patch, in North Carolina, planted the seed for Ken’s A.T. hike. Photo by Scott Ramsey

The first person to complete an official thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail famously said that he did so in order to “walk the war out of my system.” Earl Shaffer, who completed his thru-hike in 1948, had served for four years in the Pacific Theater during World War II. At Iwo Jima, he witnessed the death of a childhood friend. For Shaffer, walking the Appalachian Trail was a way of coping with what today we would call post-traumatic stress disorder, or PTSD.

The tens of thousands of people since Shaffer who have attempted a thru-hike, and the fewer than 30,000 who have completed one, have no doubt a wide variety of motivations for undertaking the challenge. Many attempt the feat at moments of transition in their lives, whether from student life to adulthood, from military service to civilian pursuits, or from professional careers to retirement.

Vital Pathways
Why restoring native habitat for the endangered Atlantic salmon matters to the A.T. experience
By Jenny O’Connell

photos by chris gallaway / horizonline pictures
The Penobscot River watershed in Maine, which includes Gulf Hagas (shown here), on the West Branch of the Pleasant River, is an ecologically rich landscape that A.T. visitors admire and enjoy. It is also vital habitat for many native fish species.
If You
Atlantic salmon

have been to Maine’s 100 Mile Wilderness, you have probably crossed over the spot without knowing it: the place where, just beyond the intersection of the Appalachian Trail, Henderson Brook slips quietly under the road. Katahdin Ironworks (KI) is the name of that road: long, dusty, remote; built to transport lumber. You likely traveled the rugged KI road in a vehicle coated with a layer of dirt, or perhaps on foot, sweating under the weight of your backpack. To you, that intersection of water, road, and trail was a blip in time, a link to somewhere else.

To a federally endangered Atlantic salmon, it’s a lifeline.

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labeled map of Japan with the Shinetsu Trail highlighted

Where It All Began

How an estate in northwestern New Jersey with ties to the settlement house movement became the birthplace of the Appalachian Trail.

By Anne Merrill
labeled map of Japan with the Shinetsu Trail highlighted

Sometimes

The places that we visit for only a short amount of time — whether on vacation, or for work, or for a family wedding or reunion — can have a disproportionate impact on the trajectory of our lives. Because you’re reading this magazine, the Appalachian Trail may likely be one of those places for you. Perhaps it was a weeklong scouting trip in the Smokies while in middle school, or a two-day backpacking trip in the White Mountains with friends during college. Perhaps it was an afternoon walk along the Trail through Harriman State Park after a business trip to New York. Whatever inspired your lifelong love of the A.T. may have been just a few moments of time in a life filled with work and family commitments.
voices from the trail
Above: A scenic view along the A.T. in North Carolina. Photo by Pamela Roy
Conserving the A.T. Experience
Reflections on the efforts and evolution of a conservancy.
By Laura Belleville
Over 18 years ago, I joined the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) as the Central and Southwest Virginia Regional Director, eventually becoming Vice President of Conservation and Policy. At the time, the then Appalachian Trail Conference boldly decided to change its name to Conservancy and focus its efforts on conserving the Appalachian Trail experience for future generations to enjoy.

The dictionary definition of a conservancy is an organization designated to conserve and protect natural resources. What sounds simple on paper is, of course, far more complex on the ground — especially for a resource like the A.T., which traverses over 2,198 miles of diverse terrain from marshland to forest, grassy bald to alpine tundra.

MAKING AN IMPACT
HONORING OUR 2022 ANNUAL DONORS
PHOTO BY ALEX SUGGS
  • LEADER
    $100,000 to $499,999
  • Bill McGinnis
  • Larry Mulder
  • National Park Foundation
  • The Powell Family Charitable Trust
  • The Volgenau Foundation
  • PARTNER
    $50,000 to $99,999
  • Cornell Douglas Foundation
  • Doris Duke Foundation
  • Daniel and Laura Gold
  • Gold Family Charitable Trust
  • National Park Trust
  • ADVOCATE
    $25,000 to $49,999
  • Michele and Dan Coleman
  • Sam Ferguson
  • Rob* and Catherine Hutchinson
  • David Roby
  • Robin and Eileen Wood
  • PROTECTOR
    $10,000 to $24,999
  • Anonymous
  • Jo Brown
  • The Dwight and Serene Q. Collmus Family Fund of The Community Foundation of Frederick County
  • Grant Davies *
  • Jean Ferlazzo
  • James LaTorre *
  • Donna and George Lawson
  • The Barton J. Ingraham and Gail G. Ingraham Foundation
  • Yong J. Lee *
  • Robert Leonetti
ATC's 2023 State-By-State Photo Contest typographic title
Water meets sky at Lonesome Lake in New Hampshire. Photo by Brad “Jaws” Gibson
Water meets sky at Lonesome Lake in New Hampshire. Photo by Brad “Jaws” Gibson
In February 2023, we put out the call to our online community to share their favorite photos of the Appalachian Trail in each state. We’re pleased to report that our community responded enthusiastically to our call! Nine months and 14 states later, the ATC received over 1,900 photos! The most photos came from Maine, followed by Pennsylvania, North Carolina, and Virginia.

As these pages attest, the images show the Trail in all its majesty — across all seasons and landscapes, from the southern balds to mountainous alpine areas, from pastoral lands to leafy green forests, from wetlands to rugged outcrops. In addition to the varied landscapes, the photos also point to the rich biodiversity of life along the Trail, from barred owls to salamanders, luna moths to wild ponies, Virginia bluebells to flame azaleas.

Although the 2023 contest has come to a close, we always welcome photo and video submissions via our website: appalachiantrail.org/media-submission-form

owl on a tree branch
A barred owl near Mount Prospect Overlook in Massachusetts. Photo by Amelia Stach
PARTING THOUGHT
Putting a Shelter in Place
BY TRACY LIND
view of underside of helicopter through leaves as it flies over trail
Visitors who spend the night in an Appalachian Trail shelter — or who rest and rejuvenate there for any amount of time — likely do not wonder how the shelter came to be. Most do not pause to consider how the wood and other materials got to the site, or who planned and built the shelter, or who maintains it throughout its decades of existence.  

Perhaps that is as it should be. The Appalachian Trail is meant to be a simple footpath through the woods. However, with an ever-changing environment and increased visitor use, maintaining the A.T. is far from simple.   

In fact, it takes thousands of people from dozens of organizations, agencies, and other entities to ensure the Trail remains a world-class outdoor recreational experience. I recently had the chance to see this complex cooperative management system in action while overseeing the replacement of two popular shelters in Connecticut.

walking the appalachian trail with fall trees and sky
Photo by Ian Severns
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