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Winter 2021
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contents / winter 2021
Who we are, how we got here, and how we find the path forward
Indigenous American lands along the A.T.
contents / winter 2021
A close call with Mother Nature
The American chestnut tree
Home and the rhythm of nature

ON THE COVER
Appalachian Trail near Mount Rogers, Virginia — which intersects with the Native American territory lands of the Moneton Nation. The A.T. runs through 22 Native Nations’ traditional territories and holds an abundant amount of Indigenous history. Photo by Jeffrey Stoner


Above: Rocky Fork Creek along the A.T. corridor in Lamar Alexander Rocky Fork State Park, Tennessee/North Carolina intersects with the Native American territory lands of the S’atsoyaha Nation.
Photo by Jerry Greer

Reckoning with the past opens the door to an equitable future
Unfiltered determination sets the tone for a beautiful adventure
Finding an authentic path to justice
Pioneering A.T. Women
Building a relationship with the outdoors
Appalachian Trail impressions
A close call with Mother Nature
The American chestnut tree
Home and the rhythm of nature
Who we are, how we got here, and how we find the path forward
Indigenous American lands along the A.T.
Reckoning with the past opens the door to an equitable future
Unfiltered determination sets the tone for a beautiful adventure
Finding an authentic path to justice
Pioneering A.T. Women
Building a relationship with the outdoors
Appalachian Trail impressions

ON THE COVER
Appalachian Trail near Mount Rogers, Virginia — which intersects with the Native American territory lands of the Moneton Nation. The A.T. runs through 22 Native Nations’ traditional territories and holds an abundant amount of Indigenous history. Photo by Jeffrey Stoner


Above: Rocky Fork Creek along the A.T. corridor in Lamar Alexander Rocky Fork State Park, Tennessee/North Carolina intersects with the Native American territory lands of the S’atsoyaha Nation.
Photo by Jerry Greer

Journeys Winter 2021 logo
ATC Executive Leadership

Sandra Marra / President & CEO
Nicole Prorock / Chief Financial Officer
Shalin Desai / Vice President of Advancement
Laura Belleville / Vice President of Conservation & Trail Programs
Cherie A. Nikosey / Vice President of Administration
Brian B. King / Publisher & Archivist

A.T. Journeys

Wendy K. Probst / Editor in Chief
Traci Anfuso-Young / Art Director / Designer

Contributors

Jordan Bowman / Director of Communications
Laurie Potteiger / Information Services Manager
Brittany Jennings / Proofreader

MISSION
The Appalachian Trail Conservancy’s mission is to protect, manage, and advocate for the Appalachian National Scenic Trail.
Board of Directors

Colin Beasley / Chair
Robert Hutchinson / Vice Chair
Edward R. Guyot / Secretary
Jim LaTorre / Treasurer
Daniel A. Howe / Stewardship Council Chair
Grant Davies
Norman P. Findley
Thomas L. Gregg
John Knapp, Jr.
Ann Heilman Murphy
Colleen Peterson
Eboni Preston
Nathan G. Rogers
Rubén Rosales
Patricia D. Shannon
Rajinder (Raj) Singh
Ambreen Tariq

PRESIDENT’S LEADERSHIP CIRCLE

Hon. Stephanie Martz
Diana Christopulos
Jim Fetig
Lisa Koteen Gerchick
Mark Kent
R. Michael Leonard
Robert Rich
Hon. C. Stewart Verdery, Jr.

© 2021 Appalachian Trail Conservancy. All rights reserved.
Membership

For membership questions or to become a member, call: (304) 885-0460

[email protected]

Advertising

A.T. Journeys is published four times per year. Advertising revenues directly support the publication and production of the magazine, and help meet Appalachian Trail Conservancy objectives. For more information and advertising rates, visit: appalachiantrail.org/atjadvertising

MISSION
The Appalachian Trail Conservancy’s mission is to protect, manage, and advocate for the Appalachian National Scenic Trail.

Board of Directors

Colin Beasley / Chair
Robert Hutchinson / Vice Chair
Edward R. Guyot / Secretary
Jim LaTorre / Treasurer
Daniel A. Howe / Stewardship Council Chair
Grant Davies
Norman P. Findley
Thomas L. Gregg
John Knapp, Jr.
Ann Heilman Murphy
Colleen Peterson
Eboni Preston
Nathan G. Rogers
Rubén Rosales
Patricia D. Shannon
Rajinder (Raj) Singh
Ambreen Tariq

PRESIDENT’S LEADERSHIP CIRCLE

Hon. Stephanie Martz
Diana Christopulos
Jim Fetig
Lisa Koteen Gerchick
Mark Kent
R. Michael Leonard
Robert Rich
Hon. C. Stewart Verdery, Jr.

© 2021 Appalachian Trail Conservancy. All rights reserved.
The staff of A.T. Journeys welcomes editorial inquiries, suggestions, and comments. Email: [email protected] Observations, conclusions, opinions, and product endorsements expressed in A.T. Journeys are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect those of members of the board or staff of the Appalachian Trail Conservancy.

A.T. Journeys is published on Somerset matte paper manufactured by Sappi North America mills and distributors that follow responsible forestry practices. It is printed with Soy Seal certified ink in the U.S.A. by Sheridan NH in Hanover, New Hampshire.

A.T. Journeys ( ISSN 1556-2751) is published quarterly for $15 a year by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, 799 Washington Street, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425, (304) 535-6331. Bulk-rate postage paid at Harpers Ferry, West Virginia, and other offices. Postmaster: Send change-of-address Form 3575 to A.T. Journeys, P.O. Box 807, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425.

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Contributors
Contributors
Trey Adcock with his arms crossed

Trey Adcock
Trey Adcock (ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ, enrolled Cherokee Nation), PhD, is an associate professor of Interdisciplinary Studies and the director of American Indian and Indigenous Studies at the University of North Carolina Asheville. In 2013, Trey participated in the Trail for Every Classroom program hosted by the ATC and has hiked multiple portions of the southern section of the Appalachian Trail with friends and family. In 2018, Trey was named one of seven national Public Engagement Fellows by the Whiting Foundation for his oral history work in the TutiYi “Snowbird” Cherokee Community. “I wanted to share my story and understanding of land acknowledgement outside of the general bland academic statements that have become the recent fad,” he says. “The Trail means so much to so many people I thought it was important to provide a perspective that not everyone knows or even thinks about — the daily act of land acknowledgement for Indigenous peoples.” (page 16)

Shilletha Curtis hiking
Shilletha Curtis
Shilletha Curtis was born in Newark, New Jersey and spent much of her time growing up in Morristown and down by the shore. She received her Bachelor’s in Social Work from Rutgers University in 2014. Before that, she spent a summer in China honing her Mandarin skills followed by an internship at an orphanage in Romania. Helping people has always been her passion but she found that she had a profound love for animals and eventually the outdoors. She trained and then worked as a veterinary technician in Austin, Texas and practiced for two years; but she realized that there was more to life than working a nine-to-five when she lost her job due to the coronavirus pandemic in 2020.

Shilletha discovered the Trail last year while hiking with her girlfriend and caught the A.T. bug since then. With a new outlook on life, she has been preparing for an A.T. thru-hike this winter (page 26). “I want to make the A.T. more accessible to the Black, Indigenous, and People of Color (BIPOC) community and address inequalities and racism within the hiking community,” she says. After the A.T., Shilletha will tackle the second leg of her plan to hike the “Triple Crown” on the Pacific Crest Trail and see where her hiking career takes her.

Mills Kelly headshot
Mills Kelly
Mills Kelly is a professor of history at George Mason University in Fairfax, Virginia. He is currently writing a history of the Trail and has just completed a shorter book titled Virginia’s Lost Appalachian Trail, about the original route the Trail took between Roanoke and Damascus, that he hopes will be published in 2021. “I first hiked on the A.T. in the early 1970s and it seems like the Trail has been part of my life ever since,” he says. “While researching my book, I kept looking for sources that spoke directly to the role that race has played in the history of the Trail. The more I looked, the more frustrated I became about the almost total absence of such sources. I wrote an article about the A.T. and race (page 24) to try to shed some light on what is truly the most under-appreciated and under-discussed part of the Trail’s history.”
Fred Tutman headshot
Fred Tutman
Fred Tutman is a grassroots community advocate for clean water in Maryland’s longest and deepest intrastate waterway and holds the title of Patuxent Riverkeeper, which is also the name of a nonprofit organization that he founded in 2004. Some of the lessons learned on the Appalachian Trail — as both a hiker and Potomac Appalachian Trail Club member — have inspired his work on water trails as well.

Prior to riverkeeping, Fred spent over 25 years working as a media producer and consultant on telecommunications assignments on four continents, including a stint covering the Falkland War in Argentina for the BBC and managing a Ford Foundation funded project to help African traditional healers tell their stories to the world.

Currently, Fred splits his time between Maryland and North Carolina where he maintains busy blacksmith forges in both places. He is the recipient of numerous regional and state awards for his environmental work, is the longest serving waterkeeper in the Chesapeake Bay region, and the only African-American waterkeeper in the nation. He lives and works on an active farm located near the Patuxent River that has been his family’s ancestral home for nearly a century. “My aim is to pursue justice for both people and the planet,” he says. “And to also encourage others to experience Mother Nature and forge a personal compact to protect her.” (page 54)

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President’s Letter

President’s Letter
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“We cannot control or change our past, but we can absolutely control our current actions and we can influence our future through those actions.”
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Looking Forward by Looking Back
This year marks the first of two significant milestones for the Appalachian Trail. In 2021, we will celebrate the 100-year anniversary of Benton MacKaye’s essay, “An Appalachian Trail: A Project in Regional Planning,” in which the A.T. was first envisioned. And, in 2025, we will celebrate the 100th birthday of the Appalachian Trail Conservancy. These anniversaries help us explore and contemplate our history. They also act as catalysts to challenge us to look back with clarity and to understand that, in order to move forward, we must look honestly at everything that has gone into building our present.

It is this ability to recognize that we exist on a continuum that defines our human consciousness.

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Letters
Letters
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YOUR WORK IS SO VALUABLE in protecting public lands. And the strong effort for inclusion of minorities in preserving nature’s beloved heritage for all to enjoy is wonderful and will bless our country in countless ways beyond the Trail.
Stephen Noltie
Lancaster, Ohio
I FEEL FORTUNATE TO HAVE completed the Trail in 2001 with my husband Bill. We look forward to receiving the beautiful A.T. calendar each year and reminiscing about our experiences. We consider it a privilege to donate to such a worthy cause. Thanks to Sandi Marra for serving as president and CEO. We appreciate your time and talent.
Sylvia Beck and Bill Haney
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Shalin
Shalin during his thru-hike in the Presidential Range of the White Mountains in New Hampshire. –By Clayton “Ridge Rambler” Perry
Acknowledgement
By Shalin Desai
It all began with a question. What are you?
When I thru-hiked the Appalachian Trail in 2015, my first planned “zero day” was in Franklin, North Carolina. I was picked up at Winding Stair Gap by a friendly local and dropped off at a well-known motel. Exhausted and dripping from a short but heavy downpour, I walked into a room crowded by ten fellow thru-hikers. Last in line, I waited to check into a room. The desk clerk was warm to each of the hikers — asking for their identification, credit card, and how their journeys were so far. When I walked up, his eyes narrowed. He looked me up and down, a soggy hiker with his pack on his back, and asked, “What are you?”
Article title
/ By Trey Adcock /
It is late September, and we are on a 5.5-mile section of the Appalachian Trail in present day southwest North Carolina looking for wisi, a mushroom more popularly known as Hen of the Woods, Grifola frondosa. There are three of us, myself an enrolled member of the Cherokee Nation (CN), an Elder, Gilliam Jackson, from the Tutiyi “Snowbird” community of the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians (EBCI) and Devyn Smith, a twenty-something year old, fresh out of college who grew up in the Yellowhill community on the Qualla Boundary. To us, this land is Tsalagi Ayehli, Cherokee Nation territory. To most, however, this is known as Nantahala National Forest.
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The
A.T.
and
Race
By Mills Kelly
For the past five years I have been researching the history of the Appalachian Trail in archives from Georgia to Maine. Among the questions I’ve tried to answer are how major events in American history — World War II, the Civil Rights Movement, the Vietnam War — had an impact on the experiences of hikers and Trail club members. World War II and the Vietnam War were easy to locate in the archives, but no matter where I looked, it was as if the Civil Rights Movement never happened.

I have read my way through the archives of almost every Trail club and the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) and despite all my searching, I found exactly one letter among the thousands of pre-2000 documents I have examined that spoke to the issues of race and civil rights. That one letter lives in the archive of the Smoky Mountains Hiking Club in Knoxville, Tennessee.

By Shilletha Curtis typography
Preparing for
the Trail
Shilletha during a prep hike near Lake Minnewaska at Gertude’s Nose in New York –By Hanna Wilson
By Shilletha Curtis typography
Shilletha during a prep hike near Lake Minnewaska at Gertude’s Nose in New York –By Hanna Wilson
Preparing for
the Trail
March 2020 creeped in like a frail fawn and roared out like a boisterous lion. COVID-19 snatched up my job as it did many others and left me tattered and torn. My worth dipped to an all-time low, leaving me with crippling anxiety and living on edge. But then nature called out to me in a calm and welcoming voice and she invited me into her marvelous wonders. Here is where my journey began.

In the silence of the unknown, my memory recalled the time that my girlfriend and I had found a trail alongside the road at Harriman State Park in New York last April. We eagerly jumped out of my old silver Nissan Sentra and headed into the shelter of the trees. As we trekked along, we were approached by an older man who greeted us promptly and proceeded to tell us, “You know right behind me is the Appalachian Trail. It runs all the way from Georgia to Maine and if you continue up the hill you can get to it. Have you ever been out here before?”

digital illustration of a compass
By Julie Judkins
Heading Toward True North
We learn, unlearn, and learn again
Many of us head to the Appalachian Trail after experiencing life changing events or when seeking a new direction in life. The Trail has served me best as a mirror for self-reflection. The A.T. allows us the introspection to see wounds we might not see in our busy lives and find a path toward healing. The lands and people the Trail encompasses have deep wounds themselves, and acknowledging the trauma of the past, like the first steps along an approach trail, is just the beginning of a long journey.
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We Were There, Too
The Overlooked Stories of Three Women
By Anne Sentz
We Were There, Too book cover
I do not believe it is by accident that I finished my copy of We Were There, Too by Gwenyth L. Loose right around the time our nation inaugurated its very first female Vice President. As I read about three women whose efforts were vital to the success of the Appalachian Trail project, Loose’s writing elicited strong emotion. These stories needed to be told and heard. Feelings of pride, intermingled with sentiments like, “finally,” coursed through me.
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Latinxhikers community after a hike
Latinxhikers at a 2019 social event at Arabia Mountain Heritage Center in Lithonia Georgia –By Chris Restrepo
Black Square
By Luz Lituma
Black Square
Changing Outdoor Representation & Narratives
As co-founder of Latinxhikers, a community created to bring more diversity to trails, I am interested in addressing and changing the lack of diversity in outdoor recreation. Two major factors holding back progress are lack of access to public lands and lack of representation in the outdoor recreation industry. Julia Hartz, CEO of Eventbrite, once said, “If you can’t see it, you can’t be it,” when speaking of women role models in the media. You must be able to see others who look like you to feel inspired and empowered. Representation matters. Representation is crucial.

Latinxhikers began as an Instagram account where Adriana Garcia, co-founder, and I would share personal experiences of being out on the trails. We wanted to create a space where we could share our stories as two Latinx women and provide advice for other Latinxs to go outdoors. I wasn’t always what one would typically consider “outdoorsy.” I am a first-generation daughter of two immigrants from Ecuador. Leisure time and family vacations were few and far between for us. This meant our vacations were usually staycations. We would do pig roasts at the lake or throw big outside parties with a lot of food. This was our way of being outdoorsy, and a lot of the Latinx community resonates with that version. It wasn’t until 2016 – after I unexpectedly summited 17,000-foot Vinicunca, Rainbow Mountain in Peru – that I started hiking. I say unexpected because I honestly didn’t know what I was signing up for. The guide told us to “just wear comfortable shoes.” It was one of the hardest hikes I’ve ever done. After doing that, I felt like I could do anything. I switched up my way of travel and started visiting as many national parks as possible.

Latinxhikers at a 2019 social event at Arabia Mountain Heritage Center in Lithonia Georgia –By Chris Restrepo
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Trail as Muse
John Amoss / Artist / Tanuki Prints
A.T. Impressions
A.T. woodblock prints of Tennessee, Connecticut, Jersey, and Massachusetts
Clockwise from top left: A.T. woodblock prints of Tennessee, Connecticut, Jersey, and Massachusetts

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As with so many of you, I owe much to the Appalachian Trail — that small ribbon of up-and-down following the ancient eastern mountains that has given me so many life-long things: friends, dogged determination, a sense of accomplishment, and a need to constantly re-connect with Mother Nature.
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Trail Stories

Trail Stories
Colleen “Teala” Peterson entering the southern end of the infamous “Roller Coaster”
Colleen “Teala” Peterson enters the southern end of the infamous “Roller Coaster” the morning of the derecho
–By Christian Peterson
Adventure & Gratitude
By Colleen Peterson
Colleen “Teala” Peterson enters the southern end of the infamous “Roller Coaster” the morning of the derecho
–By Christian Peterson
The June 2012 Mid-Atlantic and Midwest derecho is considered one of the deadliest and most destructive in North American history. Defined by Merriam-Webster as “a large fast-moving complex of thunderstorms with powerful straight-line winds that cause widespread destruction,” a derecho is most often likened to a tornado. Long-distance hikers often experience a range of weather events and I’ve certainly had my share. But the intensity of the fast-moving thunderstorms underpinning the June 2012 North American derecho that claimed 22 lives and cost $2.9 billion in damage, tested everything I had learned about survival and, more importantly, what it means to be grateful.
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Indigenous
American Chestnut Tree
Castanea dentata
By Dan Hale
AS THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL WAS first being built, the forests along the Trail were dramatically changing. American chestnut trees, the largest and most abundant trees in the forest, were dying en masse. Chestnut blight, a disease caused by the airborne fungus Cryphonectria parasitica, reduced the population of American chestnut trees from four billion (one quarter of all the trees in eastern U.S. forests) to functional extinction, meaning the population cannot reproduce enough to sustain itself.
Planned Giving is an easy and flexible way to meet your philanthropic goals while protecting the Trail you love. Whatever your stage in life, your financial circumstances and your charitable goals, let us show you how to make a gift that benefits you and your loved ones as well as the Appalachian Trail.
Contect: Liza Zaid
Director of Development
[email protected]
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A.T. Connecticut — Photo by Allison DiVerde
Voices of Dedication
Voices of Dedication
Inspired Leadership
THE NEXT GENERATION ADVISORY COUNCIL (NextGen) seeks to support the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) strategic goals of bringing new partners and new people to the A.T. In fostering a culture of inclusion, the ATC will cultivate greater strength and resilience as we work to manage and protect the A.T. and its greater ecosystem of communities and people. The council consists of 14 to 16 young, diverse leaders between the ages of 18 and 30 who serve two-year terms. Members work to address barriers, create a more inclusive narrative of people utilizing the A.T., and contribute advice to the ATC on programs and policies designed to encourage membership, advocacy, and leadership from a younger and more culturally diverse population than the current demographic. In 2020, that work included supporting strategic directions, advancement, advocacy during Hike the Hill, communications pieces (blogs, articles, podcasts, and more), and continued program participation during Youth Summits and education workshops. Our gratitude and thanks go to Kristin Murphy, Marcela Maldonado, and J.T. Stokes who completed their terms and provided incredible service over the last few years. And we welcome our four newest members, Sophie Mangassarian, Aaron Troncoso, Peter Shultz, and Jacob Wildfire.
Parting Thought
Parting Thought
The view across the fields near Fred’s ancestral family farm in Maryland

AS THE PANDEMIC TOOK HOLD OF THE WORLD, group hikes and travel to hiking destinations became less safe and so the call of the trails increasingly uncertain. But the urge to get outside transformed into a constant craving. Eventually, as we all donned masks and dug in for the long haul, I headed to my Great Grandad’s farm ­— the best place available for me to isolate. My family’s status where I live is rare in Black communities. The U.S. Department of Agriculture statistics tell us that less than one percent of the rural land in America is owned by people of color. My family is among that lowly statistic, having the rare achievement of inhabiting a Centennial farm — one that has been in continual existence in the same family for at least 100 years. We are now “Indigenous” here. But local legends tell us that we acquired our permanent home because of a hex placed by an innocent man who had been hung from a tree like strange fruit on this very land. That same tree still stands in my front yard today. The story goes that in the early 1900s, a Black man could still be hung and lynched from a tree, and White people would chip in appreciative donations for a particularly “good” hanging. The legend says that the last Black man hung from that tree put a hex on his executioners who then encountered a series of bad breaks — including the loss of the farm. Eventually, my Great Grandfather acquired title to that once-failing and defunct farm in Prince George’s County, Maryland — not far from the Appalachian Trail — a favorite and frequent hiking spot of mine.

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